LOVE A GETAWAY - HAPPY HOBART
I have fond decade-old memories of road tripping around the Apple Isle to see its natural wonders with my brother (who was determined to skip populated areas and only granted me time for dinner and a shower in Hobart after days of camping). So, I landed for this trip with modest expectations of discovering the wonders of the mainland.
But as I drove from the airport into town, it was only minutes before the massive, rolling, green hues of Mt. Wellington dominated the sky. Then the sight of the entire 1.4kms of the iconic Tasman Bridge spanned the sparkling River Derwent below me. What a welcome!
The Hobart hospitality extended to the friendly staff at the Mdvenpick Hotel, steps from Elizabeth Street Mall. I dropped my bags and began my exploration of the city that is Australia’s under-celebrated tourism treasure.
Franklin Wharf was only a short walk away where I would discover galleries, food, historic statues, and of course, the boats on the river. Yachts, luxurious catamarans and the gigantic RSV Nuyina -Australia’s Antarctic icebreaker was moored to pick up supplies. The sophisticated, nautical setting was not awash but the old tinnies I’d expected! I decided on lunch at Fish Frenzy – an obvious choice for fresh Tassie fish, award winning Tassie wines and glorious water views. What better way to finish than with an ice-cream from Van Diemen’s Land Creamery next door. I couldn’t have planned it better and cheekily enjoyed a giant blood orange & chocolate sorbet. Research!
During the afternoon, I went art gallery hopping, taking in the IXL Gallery featuring excellent local talents and the historic Henry Jones Gallery. Art Mob – a mecca for modern and traditional Aboriginal art. Director, Euan Hills proudly shared his knowledge and he also in demand by high-end collectors worldwide.
It was the complimentary Chocolate Hour back at the hotel, so I headed into the Tesoro cafe’s Chocology Afternoons. This chic spot is always buzzing and patrons often keep the party going right into the hotel lobby. Tesoro also makes an excellent breakfast.
I had noticed the city buildings looked quite compact and welcoming, almost like they belonged in a large country town. There’s a Tasmanian law requiring structures to be under 42 metres high, which also allows more sunlight in. Only the distant casino and a handful of historically significant buildings are given an exemption.
Hobart is challenging Melbourne as the culture of Australia.Inspired by the wild coastal setting, creativity here takes many forms including art and architecture. Culinary and distilling expertise come together to win global gold. Wine-making, glass-blowing, jewellery, sculpture, theatre, and Aussie-made fashion , have much to contribute to the community. The live music scene is so rich it has its own thick quarterly guide to plan ahead.
There’s plenty of museums to tell the story ofTasmania including the Maritime Museum. Mawson’s Huts Replica Museum and the famed MONA is recognised for rebuilding the Hobart economy. International visitors like to explore the extraordinary multi-sensory exhibitions at Mona. Part of the experience is to catch a ferry there and to relax in the vessel’s Posh Pit, for VIP treatment including bespoke drinks and delicious pastries.
A Tasmanian Wild Seafood Adventures Catamaran Tour is food for all of the senses. Try the excellent local sparkling wine as you learn how to prepare lobster, abalone, oysters, fresh-caught salmon and the sea urchins. These are literally fresh from the sea after a member of staff foraged for the urchins from the boat. Surely few other tours can boast that kind of service, which is why this ‘Wild Seafood Adventures’ group has won back-to-back tourism awards. Maritime Museum – Prince Regent Petrel.
Don’t miss visiting the artisan-rich Salamanca Markets, which have been going for 52 years. Discover stalls selling Australian-made goods every Saturday and a farmer’s market – ‘Farm Gate’ every Sunday. In winter, Hobart comes alive with markets and festivals. Public transport is free for Dark Mofo and the City of Hobart Winter Feast. You may even like to dive into the harbour for the nude night swim.
Back on dry land, there’s lots of restaurants to discover including Peppina – an unmissable dinner from locally raised Italian Chef, Massimo Mele. You’ll find much winter warmth in this modern-rustic setting with a fiery open kitchen and skylight. There’s warm lighting, olive trees, platters of cherry-tomato mountains, a sommelier on duty and happy people about.
Urban Greek (book ahead) is a more casual. Wave to the gracious owner Andreas cheerfully making cocktails. For nightlife, take a journey to In The Hanging Garden for music, art and culture (open all day) check out the Hobart Blues Club and Hobart Jazz Club.
To really get to know any city, you have to understand what grows there. The Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens overlooks the river and bridge. Say farewell to the stunning views and extraordinary plant life at the Rosny Hill Circuit which is just a shot walk away and sports a panoramic lookout.
Stylish and cosmopolitan, Hobart is a haven for both locals and tourists. I was impressed and invigorated by the quality of life. Download the Discover Tasmania app to plan your own winter holiday in Hobart and tell my brother that I sent you there.
